The woman building a retail community around sustainable fashion and beauty brands
The global market for sustainable products is growing fast. Large brands take begun to realise how important it is to manufacture sustainably, using eco-friendly materials and ethical processes. At the same time, an e'er-growing roster of immature entrepreneurs, driven to make their marks and brand a difference are launching small businesses, selling everything from cruelty-free beauty products to naught waste habiliment. With so many brands, large and small, getting into the space, it can sometimes be difficult to find and decide which to support.
Enter ZERRIN, launched at the end of 2022 by Susannah Jaffer, who has been based here for the concluding nine years. Formerly a magazine editor, Jaffer grew disenchanted with her own profession, and fuelled by a belief in sustainable fashion and retail, launched ZERRIN, which is both a retailer for sustainable brands likewise equally a creative bureau that tin aid these brands improve market place themselves.
With the rise in conscious consumerism, and Christmas but around the corner, I thought it was a perfect time to check in with Susannah.
WHAT Outset BROUGHT You lot TO SINGAPORE?
I moved to Singapore in 2022 – I was 21 at the time – with an offering to teach English in a linguistic communication school. Unfortunately, the visa savage through when I arrived. I was able to get a pass as a university graduate to work in Singapore for six months and concluded upward in a PR internship, and that was followed by a full-time role in magazines and media.
WHEN DID YOU Offset Really GETTING SERIOUS ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY?
I think information technology came almost through a cumulative realisation of how the industry actually works, coupled with a sense of longing to participate in manner in a more meaningful way; beyond the pretentiousness, beyond the "latest trends". It was more than so in tardily 2015/2016 when I grew the nearly tired of the typical narrative of mainstream brands… and even, media.
I learnt most about the impact of mode and its complex supply chain through independent brands I came to back up. That led me to doing more inquiry which really lifted the veil for me on the bear on habiliment production and consumption has on the planet. For me, discovering style washed in a better way, which is what sustainability encompasses, was a vehicle for mindfulness in my life, maybe in the same mode as yoga, meditation or veganism may be for someone else.
WHAT WAS THE Catalyst FOR STARTING ZERRIN?
I started ZERRIN because I wanted to help streamline the procedure for an everyday citizen like me to find fashionable, quality sustainable brands. My research and interactions with brand owners had also shown me that they struggled with marketing, creating content and finding sales channels that truly added value.
I also wanted ZERRIN to be a resource and a hub of inspiration, and to cultivate a different narrative around consumption; one that felt inclusive and uplifting versus exclusive and toxic. Style has played a huge part in shaping culture, but and so has the mode we write and share almost it. To create systemic change, I think all of us who put out communications; brands, PR, journalists, broadcasters, influencers, all have the ability to shape a whole new narrative around way consumption for the next generation. With culture change comes systemic change.
HOW LONG DID It Take TO GO FROM IDEA TO Actually LAUNCHING THE Business concern?
It took about a twelvemonth. I first sent a pitch deck out to brands at the finish of 2016, and I built the business on the side all throughout 2017, evenings and weekends. As a sole founder, I found it tough at times, with express resource or individuals to soundboard ideas off, but got at that place in the end.
I wanted to aid streamline the process for an everyday denizen similar me to discover stylish, quality sustainable brands.
HOW Difficult IS IT TO SOURCE BRANDS THAT YOU CAN TRULY SAY ARE SUSTAINABLE?
It's non easy. Sustainability is now such an overused word. Information technology's become nebulous. Different brands and founders interpret sustainability in different ways. When it comes to smaller, independent businesses, which is the surface area we play in, many are express by resources and the right connections to create a completely sustainable supply concatenation.
To assist guide us internally, we created a framework (the Better Brand Framework) that analyses a brands approach to v core areas: People, planet, production, packaging and principles. If they accept made (and are making) solid, tangible moves in those areas, combined with a quality, original product, we're interested; I run into it as our function to besides assistance them develop forth the way. We're likewise very transparent virtually this; all brands we work with are at different stages of their sustainable journey. In that location's no such thing as perfection, no matter how circular your model or recyclable your product.
WHEN SOMEONE SAYS A Brand IS Witting OR SUSTAINABLE, DOES THAT ALSO Hateful It'Southward CRUELTY-FREE/VEGAN/PLANT-BASED AS WELL?
No. You tin can take vegan dazzler products that aren't cruelty-free – of grade, it's hypocritical if they're not just it happens – and you tin have more than sustainable fabrics that aren't plant-based, like recycled polyester. It'southward of import for consumers to have a more than nuanced agreement of this then that they're supporting brands that are actually doing what they say they are. At the same time, companies should avoid being vague and be straightforward with the deportment they are taking, and what their claims actually mean.
You can have vegan beauty products that aren't cruelty-gratis.
I UNDERSTAND In that location IS A LOT OF GREENWASHING IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY TOO.
At that place are organisations that believe sustainability will give their visitor a competitive edge, and then will bound on the bandwagon in whatever mode they can. I recall some of the biggest greenwashing is coming from the fast mode manufacture – from companies that are producing millions of items each year, and a huge portion of the earth's waste material, while saying they are creating conscious lines and recycling to mitigate their impact. They aren't focusing on the crux of the problem, which is overproduction. The bike is exhausting and needs disrupting. Thanks to social media, more and more citizens are seeing through this.
On the flip side, given today's cancel civilization, there's also companies that are afraid to implement sustainability practices because they are too scared to make mistakes and get torn down. What cancel culture has also done is completely eliminate empathy and the capacity anybody has for change from the conversation. That'southward incorrect. Ultimately, I think companies shouldn't be afraid to make a get-go, as long as they are existence transparent, honest and upfront about where they are and want to become. More than annihilation, I feel similar consumers are just looking for honesty and authenticity from brands today, whatever moves they're making.
What cancel culture has likewise done is completely eliminate empathy and the capacity everyone has for change from the conversation. That's wrong.
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THRIFTING VERSUS SELLING NEW PRODUCTS?
I recall there's a place for all alternative ways of consumption, from thrifting to swapping to renting, to buying from a more sustainable brand. People need options, for different reasons. If I look at the consumption habits of my friends or customers, they're not exclusively loyal or tied to one ways of acquiring products. They're sometimes motivated to buy new, sometimes bandy, or hire a apparel when they know they're non going to wear something more than once. We demand all of these options to build a more ethical, equitable fashion organization. We're all multifaceted as human beings, and then are our sartorial choices.
Of form, options like thrifting are more than cost effective, i.due east. cheaper or the aforementioned price as new fast fashion items, but just like any ways of consumption it's not perfect. A lot of items in austerity stores are starting to be lower quality as they're effectively 2d-hand fast style and reflective of what's currently circulating in the marketplace. It's a swell mode of experimenting with trends in a more round style, but not every thrifting trip will exist successful, nor volition you necessarily find wearable that will last you a long time.
Yous can't flog a poor quality production, no matter how sustainable it is.
I as well recollect it'southward important to remember that the second-manus market wouldn't exist without the first-hand market place. From rental platforms driving revenue by hiring out the latest cult designer dres ses, to pre-loved marketplaces selling numberless on assignment, to swap stores edifice inventory through people's unwanted apparel; all of this 'inventory' came from people buying new stuff in the first place.
While at that place's already plenty of products in existence – and I believe if you're going to create something new, you should have a jolly proficient reason to and make information technology count – if people stopped producing new products, within a few years or less this would have repercussions for the second-hand marketplace. For instance, everyone that'due south thrifting Y2K manner looks right now; they were all new clothes produced and circulating when I was growing up. In a way, both second-hand and first-hand markets are actually reliant on each other for survival.
HOW DID YOU LAUNCH ZERRIN?
I did the typical; doing market research, gathering data, speaking to business owners and potential partners. Only honestly, a lot of the business was also built on gut experience and I knew I would learn and pivot as I went. Nosotros started our marketplace with 14 brands, and I set the website live at my kitchen tabular array.
WHAT HAS BEEN THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE FOR YOU AND THE Business?
Mentorship, growth and lack of resources. Ultimately, we're a bootstrapped startup, so everything has been built on a shoestring upkeep; I'm quite proud of how far nosotros've come despite the odds and the way we've developed. Letting people in; every bit I'm not ane to usually ask for help. Finally, back up and mentorship has been a big one; I think if I'd had mentors around to soundboard ideas and become advice, I could have pivoted in certain ways faster than I did.
AS THE FOUNDER, WHAT PART OF THE BUSINESS Practise YOU FOCUS ON THE Most?
Oh, it's everything at the moment. As I've hired on the retail side this yr, I'm able to spend more time looking at partnerships and content and our agency clients.
HOW Large IS THE Concern TODAY? DO Y'all Accept A Big TEAM?
We're a squad of 2 plus one intern. So, we're pocket-size merely mighty!
WHAT DO YOU WISH YOU KNEW Back IN 2017/2018 THAT YOU KNOW NOW?
I'd tell myself to end wasting fourth dimension on self-doubt, and to think that building a concern is going to exist an uncommonly lonely journey at times; but likewise rewarding. I'd besides tell myself to build a team earlier and say 'yeah' to whatever offers of help and not let my pride or guilt go far the way.
HOW MUCH OF THE Business organization IS FROM THE STUDIO ARM VS THE RETAIL SIDE?
Information technology really varies from month to month. Retail has busier months and quieter months; natural ebbs and flows that most in the industry experience. It's ordinarily about 55 per cent studio, 45 per cent retail on any given calendar month. But then, there are some months that retail is sixty per cent, studio is twoscore per cent.
HOW Can CONSCIOUS BRANDS BETTER Market place THEMSELVES? WHAT MISTAKES Practice You lot Frequently SEE?
Brands should look more at how effectively they're sharing their production and its key USPs and how they're balancing that messaging with the sustainability and social impact side of what they exercise.
My observation is that nigh designers aren't marketers; they're creatives at heart that want to focus on the making rather than the marketing strategy, content scroll out and community building.
Actually, some of the best performing brands at ZERRIN are not founded by trained designers, but those from other backgrounds and skill sets, for example marketing, communications, and advertising. Information technology just goes to show that having a bang-up production is simply office of the equation. My other ascertainment is that yous tin't flog a poor quality product, no matter how sustainable it is.
DO Y'all Take Any PERSONAL FAVOURITE BRANDS OR PRODUCTS ON THE PLATFORM?
Haha. I don't do personal favourites, but I'm proud of labels and founders who really go it together and are constantly looking to improve.
I love the label Wray Crafted; they take a special place in my heart considering of the fact I've watched them grow; from meeting the founders at a ZERRIN event to stocking their characterization in our store. They've consistently been one of our all-time performing brands.
I besides dear Dorsu, a label nosotros behave from Cambodia, which are upcycling local quality deadstock from big nearby factories into their capsule of evergreen, versatile basics. They create an infinitely better working environment and value proposition for female person garment workers in the context of the country too, which is a well-known hub of fast style production and labour rights abuses.
HOW HAS THE PANDEMIC BEEN FOR Y'all GUYS?
If I look back, the pandemic has really been nearly growth for usa, and a big learning bend for me personally. I made my first rent in 2020, which was a big step, and having someone else's perspective has really helped to shape and lay so many keen foundations for the business organization.
I think an increased focus on sustainability has also actually fabricated people locally and internationally discover and pay attention to our business. We've seen our customer base of operations, following, and inbound enquiries significantly increase during the last two years. Merely with that comes additional challenges; how practise nosotros abound purposefully? In a way that's nonetheless of radical value to our community?
Do Y'all Run into ZERRIN AS A Customs OR AS A RETAILER?
Good question! Information technology'south always been a goal to create a like-minded community at the heart of our concept; of customers and readers, of brands. We've definitely been doing that, but are looking to focus on this even more in 2022. Of course, ane of our revenue streams comes through product sales, simply our market place and physical shop/pop-ups are also a vehicle for us to convey and educate on deeper topics like sustainability, social justice, consumption and ideals.
WHAT IS THE GOAL?
To build a thriving, engaged global platform and community of brands and citizens on a journey to create and swallow more consciously. 2022 will exist focusing on developing our content, creating international partnerships and creating more than local experiences to engage the public around conscious consumption.
Any SPECIFIC PLANS FOR 2022 YOU WOULD Like TO SHARE?
I'm thrilled we'll finally be launching a podcast in 2022. It'southward been a long time coming. I'g excited for all the conversations we're going to be having virtually how we can collectively create and consume more than consciously; not just for the practiced of people and the planet, merely for our own mental wellness and happiness besides. I'm likewise hoping the pandemic situation eases enough to do larger scale pop ups next year to really make a greater impact for everyone.
Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/living/zerrin-singapore-sustainable-fashion-beauty-291846
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